Platinum 900 / 18K Gold 750 / Sterling Silver - How To Choose the Right Metal For You?

{ Value }

18k Gold and Platinum are the most valuable metals of the collection, with the latter usually 6% more expensive per gram due to the skill required in the make. As a material alone, 18K Gold is actually more valuable than Platinum. Silver, as a material, costs a tenth of the price of Gold; usually the cost of labour outweighs the overall price of a silver piece.


{ Density & Durability }

24K Gold is soft and the perfect material for handcrafting and sculpting. However, it is rarely ever used in jewellery making as it would wears away quickly. Therefore, amongst gold options, 18K Gold is the most common choice for buyers. Platinum is the densest among precious metals, approximately 25% denser than 18K Gold for the same volume. Because it is heavier in weight, Platinum a bit more expensive than 18K Gold for the same design. For people who like the feeling of a heavier substance, we would recommend this material. Silver is lightest material of them all and requires repolishing quite often as it oxidizes quickly, but it is the best option for those on a tight budget.


{ Colour }

Gold is the winner of colours. Because it is the only material that allows us to play with its metal composition and percentage of elemental gold, we have the choice of vivid rose, silvery white, or a rich yellow gold. The higher in Gold composition, 18K to 24K, you will also witness a richer colour. Sterling Silver and Platinum only come in the silvery white. In comparison to 18K White Gold, Sterling Silver and Platinum give off a bit cooler white tone.


{ Flexibility }

One thing that most people overlook when choosing a metal is the flexibility to resize. Our fingers do change over time, usually unfortunately larger! 18K Gold is the best material to resize with ease. Depending on design, with just a few hundred dollars, your ring can fit snugly again in the newly repolished fitted ring! Platinum is a harder metal to resize. Although some exceptions do exist, most resizing of a Platinum band will leave you with a small crease line. This may not bug some people, but to some others, it may become the thing you focus your little attentive eyes on from then on..


{ Skin Sensitivity }

Some people are highly sensitive and allergic to certain metals, particularly to nickel and brass. Choosing a precious metal with higher purity is the key here. Platinum and 18K Gold, because of its higher element content, is the best hypoallergenic option.



Article Recollected & Rewritten by Janet Tam of fresh recollection


Diamonds with fluorescence aren’t all bad, in fact some diamonds need a bit of fluorescence to help its colours. So why do we all hear big brands like Tiffany’s, Harry Winston, Piaget shun this characteristic? 

Know when to hate it and when to love it! Get ready to be surprised!

FLUORESCENCE - the glow you see when an object emits visible light. For a diamond, it is when they emit bluish light (sometimes yellow or orange light) when exposed to ultraviolet (UV) rays such as the Sun.


Fluorescence in Diamonds

Almost 30% of diamonds have some degree of fluorescence, but the GIA considers “Fluorescence” only as an identifying characteristic - it has no grading factor like the other 4Cs. Unlike the typical diamond specifications (Colour, Clarity, Cut & Carat), the price is not adversely affected in a continuous decreasing manner when a diamond show signs of blue light under a fluorescent lamp. In fact, in some cases, it helps increase a diamonds worth!



The Time to Love

Because of the blue tone that a Fluorescent Diamond emit, diamonds with a lower colour grading - with a yellowish tone - will benefit by de-colouring effect. The blue light can mask the undesirable faint yellow in the stone under natural lighting as the colours are complementary in the colour wheel. Hence, a lot of professional jewellers tend to mark 2% higher in prices when blue fluorescent diamonds are found in Colour “I - M” stones. Hey, I get a more affordable diamond that looks Colourless, why not?



The Time to Avoid

Not all diamonds can benefit from Fluorescence though. The opposite holds true for diamonds of better Colour “D - H” and are less desirable in the trade. The body colour of these rocks are too colourless, and cannot offset the degree of Fluorescence you will see under the sun. Although typically diamonds are not adversely affected by fluorescent, depending how strong it is, Fluorescence can be considered a defect and cause a diamond to be sold 15% less.



The Time to Really Hate - and the Vendors who sell them..

First the story: So this happened to my best friend. Sadly I couldn’t have prevented it because she got engaged when I was still an Architect-devotee.

She showed me her proud D Colour VVS1 engagement ring. Nice and big. But I noticed it wasn’t all too clean, like when you fingerprint your iPad screen after applying a nice moisturising hand lotion. It happens, I mean I always get hand lotion on my diamond rings too - I’m rather a skincare maniac. Anyway, so I said to her, Hey I’ll offer to clean your ring for you. I did. It looked the same. What happened??

In really rare cases (only 0.2% of fluorescent pack) the diamonds with Very Strong Fluorescence will create a hazy, milky, oily or cloudy appearance. So screw the VVS1 Clarity quality in its cert, it looks completely like an acrylic plastic. Beware of dishonest vendors that rip you off for not knowing your shit!!


So What to Conclude

Be smart! If you’re not experienced, find an Honest Vendor (like me *wink). Serious though, if you’re paying your month’s salary on something that requires so much technical expertise, you better have an expert you trust guide you to getting the best one. Or if you have a question, ask me here.

Good vendors typically try to stray away from stocking up Medium to Very Strong fluorescent diamonds in the first place, so you really have nothing to worry about. Oooh, maybe that would be a good hint to weed out a bad store if you see one lying around. Maybe.

But do remember that many trade professionals sell Faint Fluorescence as the technique to decolour faint yellow stones do really increase its worth AND it is beneficial to the end-user too. 

All in all, always compare loose stones on a white paper. Compare with good master stones to see if you find the one you like acceptable. Then you’ll know if the Fluorescent factor really matters to you.



Who Am I?

I am Janet Tam, part of the new movement of Jewellers that believe in human connection and collaboration. I love to meet people to create ideas and develop inspiration.

Registered and still practising as a Professional Architect in Hong Kong, I was brought up in a Jeweller’s family - counting diamonds, artistry and design has always been in my blood.

Images Courtesy of Pinterest & GIA Gemological Institute of America Inc.



There are many ready-made jewellery out there. But we are all quite picky people, admit it! It’s hard to find one with the right diamond, the right size, the right fit, and darn it.. the right price! That’s why Custom-made Jewellery is so amazing! Not only will your wish come true, you will participate in its production - making it so much more meaningful!

BUT.. before jumping right into the arms your Jeweller, who you expect to fix all your worries. You need to do a little homework of your own and understand the precautions to get the most out of your experience! 

Bring a Design

Got a new design? We, jewellers, love to design with you! Please do understand that it is hard for even a psychic to read your mind. So if you have a sample ring or a picture, always bring it. That’s the ONLY way for you to get the exactly what you want! 


Be Specific

If there are certain design or features you think are important, please remember to mention it in advance. 4-prongs? 6-prongs? Prongs that are rounded off or squared? (Picking the Best Diamond Setting? - Coming Soon) The jeweller will always choose the design that will be most secure without covering too much of the diamonds. Same goes for the design of the inner-side of the ring band. We would usually consider making your jewellery most comfortable and classic for you only. But you have a special request, please be specific and remember to voice it.



Try on Similar Designs

Now you already know exactly what you want, GREAT! Bring in the Pinterest images and show them to me! But I still recommend you try on similar styles of jewellery in stock - just because it looks good in pictures may not mean it’ll feel good on your hand. It’ll be truly unfortunate to finally have that beautiful diamond ring made, but it just darn makes your fingers look stout (Choosing Jewellery that Flatters You - Coming Soon).



Know Yourself

Unless you’re the best buddy of your jeweller, s/he’ll probably not know you well enough to design a jewellery with the style catered for you. So be prepared to understand your own fashion sense, your lifestyle, and what occasion you see yourself wearing that jewellery. Jewellery design is a deep mysterious ocean, limitless. (How to Wear Jewellery to Work - Coming Soon) Do help your jeweller out, so I can help you pick the stone, style, and budget that would fit you. But of course, if you love my style and design tastes, I’d love to propose you something!



Bring a Sample Ring

If ring is what you want, and you have a ring that already fits well and is similar in band width as the one you are about to design, bring it over. Although all jewellers have a set of metal rings to try out your sizes, it is always better to know what you find most comfortable. 



Allow for Time

Custom-made jewellery should never be rushed. A good jewellery piece requires good craftsmanship, and that takes time. Always go to a jeweller in advance of the date you need it, and do let us know the date you truly need it. Custom production can sometimes cause delays, especially you have a complicated design. So while most can be completed within 2-3 weeks, it is always best to find a jeweller a month before your set date, especially for proposal and weddings.



Trustability!

Always find a jeweller you can trust! Custom-made jewellery can be risky if you cannot trust your jeweller. It is easy to be fooled and ripped off - the world can be a crummy place and not everyone has the best of heart. (Can you Trust your Jeweller? - Coming Soon) (Say No to Bad Craftsmanship)

Who am I

I am Janet Tam, part of the new movement of Jewellers that believe in human connection and collaboration. I love to meet people to create ideas and develop inspiration.

Registered and still practising as a Professional Architect in Hong Kong, I was brought up in a Jeweller’s family - counting diamonds, artistry and design has always been in my blood.

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